The Ulbster Stone, partially incised and partially in relief. (Reproduced courtesy of Caithness Horizons Museum and Art Gallery, Thurso)
The county of Caithness is located on the north east coast of Scotland and has been inhabited since about 8000 BC, when hunter gatherers paddled northwards up the fish-rich, post-Ice Age, rivers and costal firths. The first farmers evolved around 4000 BC and by the 6th century AD Pictish farmers welcomed the first Celtic Christian missionaries with their Goidelic, or Gaelic, languages. By cleverly aligning with the powerful Pictish rulers of the north, the Celtic missionaries did not aim to overthrow Pictish beliefs, symbology and traditions, but over time they demonstrated that just beyond the Pictish pantheon of gods, was an omnipotent One God, who ruled all creation. The semi-integrated Pictish-Christian culture of Caithness was brought to a bloody end by Viking raiders in the 9th and 10th centuries who came to dominate Caithness until the arrival of Norman knights in the 12th century.
Located about seven miles south of Wick on the A9 road, an abandoned crofting hamlet called Ulbster was once managed by a branch of the Sinclair Earls of Caithness, most famously Sir John Sinclair, the highly achieved statistician, who wrote the pioneering 1884 Statistical Accounts of Scotland . The Sinclair family built a family burial mausoleum at Ulbster on a patch of land, which once housed an Early Medieval place of worship – St Martin’s Chapel. Bearing the date 1700 on a wind vain on its roof, scholars such as Oliphant and Thomson maintain that the mausoleum is the converted remains of the chapel.
The Sinclair burial mausoleum at Ulbster is located upon the foundations of St Martin’s Chapel and was built using its stones. Location: 58 ° 21′ 31.57″ N, 3 ° 8′ 12.12″ W . CC BY-SA 2.0 (Doug Lee / CC BY-SA 2.0 )
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Ashley Cowie is a Scottish historian, author and documentary filmmaker presenting original perspectives on historical problems, in accessible and exciting ways. His books, articles and television shows explore lost cultures and kingdoms, ancient crafts and artifacts, symbols and architecture, myths and legends telling thought-provoking stories which together offer insights into our shared social history . www.ashleycowie.com.
Top Image: Map of Caithness detailing Iron Age brochs. (Courtesy of the Caithness Broch Project.)
By Ashley Cowie
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